Australian Jewellery: From Colonisation to the Present Day
Early Colonial Jewellery (Late 18th to Early 19th Century)
In the early days of Australian colonisation, fine jewellery production began with gold, silver, and gemstones imported from the British Empire. The British system of hallmarking, used to verify the quality of metals, was familiar to the colonists, but it could not be fully implemented in Australia due to the absence of a local assay office. Instead, some jewellers used their own unique marks, such as initials, to signify the authenticity and purity of their creations. Others replicated hallmark symbols, not to deceive but to reassure buyers of the metal’s quality.
Although British assay standards did not apply to Australian-made items during this period, many jewellers adhered to English conventions, marking their jewellery as 18ct or 22ct gold or sterling silver. Early jewellery production was centred in Sydney, following European settlement in 1788, and expanded to Hobart in 1803.
Jewellery from the early 19th century, whether marked or unmarked, is rare and valuable. These items can often be identified by their unique craftsmanship, design, and markings. For example, breastplates were given to Aboriginal people as recognition for saving or serving colonists. Such early colonial jewellery rarely appears in auctions today, but when it does, pieces with identifiable marks can command significant premiums.
The Gold Rush Era (1851 – 1870)
The discovery of gold in Australia in 1851 sparked a significant shift in jewellery production. Native gold began to be used in the creation of jewellery, and as wealth and population surged, the jewellery industry expanded rapidly. Between 1851 and 1870, many jewellery pieces were unsigned and lacked quality marks but can be recognised by their bright, high-carat gold and distinctive Australian designs. A common feature of this era is the bloomed yellow finish, which gives the pieces a uniquely Australian look.
Growth of the Jewellery Industry (Late 19th Century)
By the late 19th century, jewellery production had expanded significantly, with major hubs in Melbourne, Sydney, Adelaide, Perth, and other cities. The jewellery produced during this time was often marked by manufacturers, making it easier to identify and date pieces.
Melbourne became the centre of the Australian jewellery industry by the end of the 19th century, largely due to the wealth generated by the gold rush. In 1889, the Manufacturing Jewellers Association of Victoria was established, introducing standardised marks to indicate the maker, gold purity, and quality of craftsmanship. Symbols such as a sheaf of wheat for 9ct, a pick and shovel for 12ct, a fleece for 15ct, and a sailing ship for 18ct were used to represent different levels of purity. By 1901, 26 manufacturers were using these marks, though their use declined in the 1920s.
20th Century Developments
In 1910, Sydney followed Melbourne’s lead and formed its own jewellers’ association. This group adopted symbols like the kookaburra for 9ct, 15ct, and 18ct gold and the wren for sterling silver. These symbols were nationally recognised in 1920, but the system was abandoned in 1940 after limited adoption.
Throughout the 20th century, notable Australian jewellers, such as Gary Bradley and Matcham Skipper, contributed to the rich tradition of Australian jewellery design, blending craftsmanship with local influences.
Modern Standardisation: The Gold and Silversmiths Guild of Australia (1988)
In 1988, a group of gold and silversmiths established The Gold and Silversmiths Guild of Australia, introducing a voluntary system of marking jewellery. This system, based on the UK hallmarking system, includes the maker’s unique mark, the metal’s purity, and a kangaroo head symbol representing Australian origin. This initiative reflects the pride and craftsmanship of Australian jewellers.
Contemporary Market and Collectability
Jewellery made from gold and silver is often recycled, making surviving pieces from earlier periods highly valuable. Early pieces that remain intact, whether marked or unmarked, are sought after due to their craftsmanship, distinctive Australian style, and historical significance. Items with well-known makers’ marks, especially those from the colonial period, can fetch significant premiums at auction.
